Change of plans. Unlike promised, this post will not include the actual trip report (which is still in production). Instead, it will include my thoughts on Istria. I’ve been thinking for several weeks now how to write this message. Obvious, as I went there on a press trip and was heartily welcomed by all Istrians, I feel inclined to write something positive. And I do have sincere, warm feelings towards the place. Yet, at the same time… I cannot ignore this strange feeling I have inside.
Would I return to Istria?

I would have to answer with both ‘yes’ and ‘no’. It’s quite ironic. I feel I can recommend Istria to almost any kind of traveler except myself. The way I enjoy traveling: by myself, complete flexibility, meeting people along the way… it just doesn’t go well with Istria. I need hostels, friendly locals and a good infrastructure to be able to travel. Also, the place needs to be affordable: I’m only a poor student after all.

Not that Istria isn’t affordable, accessible, welcoming and accommodating. It is in its own way. Yet, some things would limit me too much in traveling, thus, for the moment… I cannot return. Take for instance the transportation system. With frequent flights landing in Pula, Trieste and Venice and countless harbors the region seems well served. Also, there is a tunnel connecting Istria with the rest of Croatia and (if I recall correctly) there are plans of building some new railways. However, the roads inside Istria are winding and for an outsider it could be hard to find the way. Routes are outlined and, to someone used to Bolivia’s vibrating unpaved roads, well maintained, but it still seemed a bit of a maze. Of course, the reason why Istria is lacking some crucial highways is honorable, but it does severely limit the region’s accessibility. Once there though, the visitor is treated to an impressive scenery of fjords, green hills and picturesque medieval villages, thereby well compensating the initial struggle to reach the place. And if the effort seems too great, there’s always the azure blue Adriatic sea with its pebble beaches to visit. A beautiful region, though you might want a map to explore the countryside.

Another reason why I can’t return yet is the nature of Istria’s hotel branch. Not that there’s anything wrong with the available accommodations, it’s just: I need hostels for traveling. Without them meeting new people would be much harder. Bed&Breakfast’s might be an alternative, but even there it would limit my freedom of movement. Whenever you’re in company there’s a need to adapt and, no matter how kind the hosts might be, it would limit me, as I would try not to burden them. It’s easier to come home at 5 p.m. or refuse breakfast in a big, anonymous hostel than it is in a B&B.

Having said that, Istria does have many great accommodations suitable to people of all kinds. It’s easy to rent an apartment, or visit one of the many cheap-yet-good 5-star hotels. Still booming business, the place apparently also has quite a few (Dutch) campings. Another -in my opinion- great possibility are the Bed&Breakfasts inland, where people can stay with local families who still produce authentic regional products. Usually small scale, these places offer tourists the rare opportunity to meet locals, feast on delicious home-made Istrian cuisine and witness first-hand how the food is produced.

So how about prices and hospitality, my two remaining issues? I can only be positive on these. I was treated most kindly by the Istrians who, to my great surprise, not only spoke Croatian but also Italian (the region is officially bilingual) and some bits of English and German. I felt welcome as a tourist, and not just for my money-spending abilities. Regarding price levels: I found these to be very favorable. I remember paying around 5 euros for a full meal at a local pizzeria and even high quality meals were abundant for less than 25 euros. Hotels and B&B’s were in the same range: cheap yet good.

So I am left with mixed feelings. A part wants to return to the delicious food, good weather, beautiful landscape and overall friendliness. But there’s also a part that deems it impossible to return now, as such would mean either frustration or a necessary change in traveling-styles. Maybe one day I’ll go back.. who knows…

Here’s a short list of places I visited during my stay in Istria:

(content added tomorrow. Please be patient!)